ericsh

Hey guys, I bought some race tech gold valves a while ago and lost the instructions on assembling the compression shims. It was recommended that I use a c 32 or c 33 stack based on my weight. How is this assembled? Does anyone have a pic of this?

Hi Dave, I'll also take a set before they are all gone. I'll send you a a paypal. Eric in Mesa

Hey guys, I have a 2002. This installation worked out pretty smooth. First, I removed the windshield and the upper covers on both sides. I changed out the bulbs and went to HOME DEPOT and bought (2) 3/4" black neoprene gromets. I threaded the wires from the bulbs thru the gromet and positioned the bulbs in their respective locations - nice fit. I the loosened only the top instrument panel bolt and tilted it towards the tank. I then dropped the HID wires down behind the instrument panel. I the put the sticky foam onto the ballasts. I then tie wrapped the ballasts on a slight angle onto the fairing stays behind the panel using a plastic nub from the headlight case touching the drilled nub on the ballast. I used (3 ) tie wraps to secure. Wires from the ballast face lateral. Its obvious what to do. It won't hit the back of instrument panel. The foam prevents vibration. I then made the power connections on both sides. I then tie wrapped the starter to the Y shaped large round tubed directly below the instrument panel on each side, and wrapped all extra wire. I wish I had photographed the installation - real clean and tight. What light!!! You do need lots of dexterity and small hands, but this is as clean as it gets. Eric 8)

Hi, I'm also interested in 1/2 of a kit for my low beam only. Thanks Eric in Mesa, AZ

I posted this a couple of weeks ago - works like a charm. Seating reach equals that of my previous FJ1200. Back problems solved: Search the previous posts for: VFR bars with pre-load adjustable risers, and Galfer lines

:idea: Alright you Ghurus, I've got a question? Will the innards of Hondas new 919 with its 43mm forks and adjustable preload and compression damping fit the Blackbird?? :?: Looks like this is an evolution of the Blackbird fork. I wonder what the cost would be versus shelling for Racetech, etc.?

Hi, I ordered the preload adjuster bar risers from Blackbird spares - very impressed. Good e-mail communication, and I had the stuff from England faster than many local vendors. Thanks A+++ rating. Jolly Good!

Still have not decided - I've been waiting for you to give me that "low-cost" option! Seriously, after I get my Wilbers .9 springs and change the fork oil to 2.5 wt, I will make a decision. I will probably end up re-valving with RaceTech next year unless someone comes up with a "Do-able" low cost fix(with plenty of pics). I am pretty handy fixing shit so I'm willing to take on a project with a known/predictable outcome(like great front end handling qualities). So far there is a vast improvement in comfort with the bars extended and a Corbin saddle. I just got back from a 250 mile run with short stints up to 120MPH, and no more sore arms/back. I'm 5'7" and 150 lbs. Next stop - improved fork compliance! :wink:

Yes I ground down the tab which is no big deal. The Galfers fit without a hitch. The proper angles, fit and finish. Eric

These are wonderful one way bleed valves that have a thick teflon like substance already on the threads to prevent air and fluid leakage. I will replace every nipple with these I am so impressed! :idea: They are only around $4 a piece with our discount at cyclebrakes. Allows you to do this job yourself. Eric

Here is an additional view of the installation: It does clear the stock windscreen by 1/2 of an inch! Notice the upper bleed valve on the Galfer kit. P.S., this kit was ordered with 3" longer lines and everything fit perfect (unlike the Spiegler lines). I was able to bleed the system without a pump using the SPEEDBLEEDERS which were recommended by cyclebrakes.com - that was a good call for ~$4.00 a piece. Made the job very easy for one person.

:oops: How did you get the image to work? I've followed the instructions?? For future reference that is. I'm still a novice at this.

Check this out you short armed riders:

My new suspension is on the way - thanks Warchild! :wink: I have a question about the measurement of fork oil. I don't yet have a shop manual. Is the fork oil measured with the spring out of the fork or with the spring on the damper rod? Obviously the volume of oil that different springs displace would make a difference in the oil level if the level is measured with the spring out of the fork. I only weigh 150lbs, so I am assuming that I should lower it to about 140mm. Second what will the change be in static sag on this bike with the .9kg/mm spring since the Wilbers is supposed to use the stock spacer? Is this a fixed number? Klaus is supposed to get back with me on this. The reason that I want to know this is because I just purchased the preload adjustable fork caps from Blackbird Spares and want to be able to figure out how much I will need to cut down the stock spacers(if I do?) to put the sag at mid adjustment at the stock setting (~38mm). When I finally put the front together together I'll publish some pictures of the preload adjustable risers with VFR bars on top of them (I think it just clears the windscreen). I've got a short reach! Comments anyone? Has anyone combined Wilbers springs with the Racetech Gold valves yet? Thanks

A question to the Blackbird Ghurus. I have a 2002xx - bone stock with 3400 mi on the ticker. I have noticed that the chain seems to track shifted over to the left side of the sprocket NOT in the middle of the sprocket confirmed by the contact points. The rear wheel is aligned. Tire wear normal. Handling OK. I'm a little concerned about throwing the chain, and about chain life. Has anyone seen this before? am I missing or have the wrong spacers on the front sprocket? What do I need to do next?:roll: