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Toynutt last won the day on June 20

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  1. I use quite a few of the items you listed. The bulk quantities of quart containers is a must, as I regularly deliver soups and meat sauces ( elk, and other venison) to friends and family members. I have found out that quality varies greatly between brands ( I don’t buy the GFS brand) . The lids are generally flimsy and inferior. There are commercial kitchen suppliers in most markets that let you buy restaurant quality cases of containers in bulk packages at similar prices. Most people don’t even know they are open to the public in most cases, but, they are a great source for commercial quality items.
  2. I believe that some of the factory lines had sections of hard line in the middle sections that were crimped in place. They did not allow for fitting connections and were replaced in their entirety.
  3. I believe I took advantage of the group buy. The kit definitely eliminated all of the hard lines. Perhaps later versions were able to utilize some of the factory lines.
  4. I installed a Hel kit on my '03. If memory serves me right, I am pretty sure it required me to remove all of the hardlines on the bike and replace them with full length runs of hose. It was a bit if a hassle, but relatively doable. A bike lift is very helpful in the install. I think ( not 100% sure ), the Spiegler kit lets you keep the hard lines.
  5. There are options to stainless steel. Cupro-nickel line is now a common material and is very bendable . PM me and I might be able to help you out.
  6. This looks like a great option, too: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CREE-XM-L-XML-T6-L...=item51a78542af
  7. If you want to go the flashlight route, here is a nice clamp on LED option for you to try. http://t.costco.com/Blackfire-Clamplight-C...t.11760123.html They are only about 100 lumens each, but 2 of them should do a pretty decent job.
  8. There are landscape lights at home Depot that utilize MR16 bulbs for uplighting walls. You can substitute an LED MR16 bulb for one and make up a handlebar or clamp mount for it. Here are a few examples: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/se...1z115yu=1z115yu You might want to make sure that there is a strong retention for the bi pin light so that it does not vibrate out of the fixture. Some of the spots should do it as they retain the bulb with a tight fitting screw on bezel. Otherwise, you might have to instal a little bit of compressible closed cell foam between the edge of the lamp and the glass lens. Good luck.
  9. Anyone who wants to reload SW .40 should be very aware of a couple of critical details! Unlike most brass that has a gradual radius of brass around the web area near the case rim, .40 brass tends to have a rather sharp transition in brass thickness from the vertical walls to the case head(more like a V). Problems occasionally arise when shooting in pistols that do not fully support the case head, such as a Glock (Wolf replacement barrels generally alleviate the problem). As a result, a certain bit of the brass bulges out a bit when fired. After running the cartridge through a sizing die this area will eventually work harden or not be fully resized, as most dies do not really fully form the brass all the way to the case rim due to their design and entry radius (they actually make dies that push the 40 case through a die to iron this out a bit). http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/16318 Multiple firings through an unsupported chamber will potentially lead to a separated case head, particularly when loaded to full pressure. You are "generally" safe to load them once or twice as long as you know what they were fired from. Miscellaneous 40 range brass should be avoided, however, IMHO.
  10. Mityvac has several versions that I own: http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_fee.asp You also have a pump version should you have a need to service a vehicle where there isn't any shop air available. Don't use them for gasoline or strong solvents, however.
  11. I replaced the switch which comes with the wiring harness attached. The old one was in good shape. My cousin said he was riding along in a straight line (no angle to the bike) when it cut out. He hit the button after it cut out and nothing happened. He cycled the key and hit the button and it fired right up. The battery that was in it was several years old ...I changed it out for a Deka Extreme and upped the battery size while I was at it (I am a distributor). I am leaning towards an ignition switch going bad...if my logic is correct.
  12. OK ... I replaced the Kill switch assembly, the bank angle sensor, the kickstand switch, and the battery (needed one anyway). I wanted to make sure that my cousin, who is staying with me for a couple of months has a reliable ride to enjoy. Unfortunately, he reported that it still happened a couple of times this last month. He was able to restart the bike but I am still scratching my head on this one. The only two things I can think of would be the ignition switch, or the ECM (no codes at present). The bike does have a powercomander, but I have never heard of this problem with one before. Any one care to chime in on this one?
  13. I will check the kill switch and the tip over switch, too. All good advice.
  14. Thanks for the offer Joe. I do have my pristine 0-mile '03 still parked in my warehouse should I ever need to have a reference part to test (not likely, though).
  15. If everything stays lit, it could be the "bank-angle sensor", aka "tip-over switch". Nope. Everything stayed lit. Just a solid FI light as the bike coasted to a standstill. I was thinking of the bank angle switch could be at fault (even though I was riding in a straight line at the time). Any easy way to verify it being bad or do I just change it for insurance? Isn't it pretty much a mercury switch in design?
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