HERBXX

Newer bikes have the bypass hole in the damper rod, not the valve. (my 02 was like this) . I ended up expoxing up the holes in the damper rod after i drilled the gold valves. I If you already have bypass holes in the damper rod you may not want or need to drill yr gold valves. The holes are in the face of hex part of the lower end of the damper rod. Herb

Yep... I read "ultra-low stiction" and instantly thought "ultra-loose seal, with thin sealing edges, will damage easily" and put on the OEM Honda ones... Mike Are the seals worn out ? there is no need to change them with the racetech install unless you want to . The express way is take off he front wheel, remove the bolt in the bottom of the fork, remove the fork cap and pull out the cartridge and spring, take it too yr bench and get to work. You should have and very small torque wrench to tighten the center bolt that holds the stack together. I belive the the position of an oil bypass in the rebound valve changed some time before 2002. I found ths out after drilling the recomended hole in the valve only to find out there already was one in the bound shaft. I took it apart later and epoxied up the rebound hole in the honda assembly. In 2003 when i installed the valves the instructions did not address the honda change in design.

Well, i rarely carry a passenger and didn't have a corbin back then and mine cracked after 2 or 3 years. I was using a home made rack and givi mount so i thought that might have something to do with it. I reinforced the back of the cracks with glass mat , cyano and baking soda, I feel the the little tabs the under the cowel that holds the threaded insert for the bolts that hold downt the grab rack are kind of thin and flexible. I added a brace of 1/2 inch tube between them . Its just a piece of tube with a 3/6 nut welded on each end, then bolted through the a hole drilled in the center of the tabs to help keep the tabs from flexing down and out. Im not saying this is cure , but it definitely stiffened things up. You could use an alum rod with a couple holes drilled and tapped if you wanted to as well.

Hey Mikey , i have a spare new x-11 one or what ever was considered to be the one to have a couple years ago. Im in guelph ! Let me know if you want it .

The switch is on the left side of the engine case, right beside where the shifter shaft comes out. Single wire connector. I would check the wiring in the area of the switch, first, and if nothing turns up, try grounding the wire with the key on. If the indicator comes on, the switch is likely defective. Mine was not coming on when it was surposed to itermittanly. I traced the wire, checked the switch ect. I ended up finding the plug to the cluster was not seated quite right. Of course i had just ahad it all apart changing out the cowel. Herb

I don't see why there would be a problem. All factory HID's are built that way, IIRC. With a split unit you can easily (relatively) and safely extend the wires between the ballast and igniter, AS we are only talking about about 100 volts . The ballast can then be mounted were it is more convenient , and the match box sized igniter can be mounted up front. I believe the latest oem car unit s have the igniter built into the socket making the socket larger then you would expect. I have an split ballast and igniter from a maxima or somthing like that that i use for my low beam, with the ballast mounted on the side of the rear subframe. I use a one piece bosch ballast from an audi for my high. Herb

As for what happened, i vote for no antifreeze , a cold night and slush in the pump. It happend to my brother sv650.

I was wondering if you had checked the forks at full compression and extension, with the caps at the extremes of the adjustment to make sure the rebound valve doesnt hit the top or bottom of the cartridge. I have the caps but i havent got around to installing them yet. Thanks Herb

OK, I can give some ideas to work with. You could go with one larger rear master cylinder (mabe from a heavier bike or heavy cruiser that needs more back brake), come out of that to a y fitting to the front and rear brakes. In the line to the rear you install a brake bias valve, they are about 70 to 150 bucks i think. This valve has a knob on it that allows you to reduce preasure on the output by an adjustable percentage usually up to 50 percent . Most car speed shops have this a valve , cause when you mess with oversize brakes on a car you need one. The the one I have in my 5.0 is from ford motorsports(re bagded from baer i think), its not that big and there would be room on a bike, but you will have to mess with fittings . I would put it somehere it easy to get to so you can get it set up right . The problem with this is if you have a leak you loose both front and rear brakes. I run my 5.0 on the track like this but i still have the emergency brake though at 100mph into a hair pin it the E brake would most likle just make me run off backword instead or front ward The other and maybe safer, since you have redundacy , is to hook the rear petal to 2 rear master cylingers , then by varying the linkages you can adjust the bias. This set up of 2 mater cylinders is used on some race cars maybe a lot im not sure. I think the key is build some bias adjustability into you set up as you will be mixing and matching components and IMO you will never get it righ the first or 5th time unless you can adjust it . Herb

Long [tall] valve guides makes sense to me. My KTM must have soft seats and/or short guides because many owners who subject their bikes to race conditions have to replace valves every other season. I think most of those high reving 4 stroke singles are just hard on parts. I have heard of several 250 honda that need head work after the first season of a few races. I suspect there is very little valve seat area on that style of motor to begin with and some spend a lot of time wide open . My brothers 525 needed new valves in less then a year. I think it might have had something to do with flat dirt roadrace track , or mabe its the slicks and the go cart track :icon_think: The parts in those beasts are so tiny and light you just cant expect them to last that long. The bird is very overbuilt for the power it makes . Herb Long [tall] valve guides makes sense to me. My KTM must have soft seats and/or short guides because many owners who subject their bikes to race conditions have to replace valves every other season. I think most of those high reving 4 stroke singles are just hard on parts. I have heard of several 250 honda that need head work after the first season of a few races. I suspect there is very little valve seat area on that style of motor to begin with and some spend a lot of time wide open . My brothers 525 needed new valves in less then a year. I think it might have had something to do witha flat dirt roadrace track , or mabe its the slicks and the gocart track :icon_think: The parts in those beasts are so tiny and light you just cant expect them to last that long. The bird is very overbuilt for the power it makes . Herb

Can any servic shop recharge it? If the preasure is gone, and it wasnot vented on purpose, then it had to go somewhere . I would think that the seals in the shock are defectice or there is a leak some where. Unless you know why the gas is gone, I would look for another shock for your project. Herb

Yep, just use some channel lock pliers on the filter , there is no need to take off any body work. :icon_clap:

Hi a,b, d are the center of the hole or fastener pointed. C is the center of the point of the Mounting lug, all measurements are in mm. A - C 393 B - C 494 B - D 285 If you need any more measurements let me know Herb

NP , I would be glad too . I still only have the left one , I Have the origional ones I made but the right is twisted to much to be bothered fixing. I can give you whatever measurements you need. I which i had a cad pgm and knew yhow use it . I took draftingn highschool, but that is little good now. Give me a few days I dont have much time till the weekend. Locating stuff in free space is hard without a starting point. I will mabe drop a line done from the top mount to get a verticle a center line . The real key is to get the bottom mounts. But i can keep taking meaurements till you get what you need ! It just might take a couple tries. Do you really want the mount to the ground ? It will very depending on the bike , i can measure it on the center stand of you like ?