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xxexcess

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  1. You can use honda car coolant it's the same stuff they put in the bikes, personally i wouldn't run with just water, coolant contains anti corrosion additives it's there for a reason.
  2. Depends how horny the wife is.............................
  3. it's riveted but thats no big problem, looking down them with a torch earlier today looks like one of pipes/baffles is in about 2 or 3 pieces so re packing isn't going to help that one.
  4. My 96 XX has carbon oval yoshi rs3's on it, now the problem is that on both exhuasts there is/was in the centre a metal pipe this has snapped off and is now floating around inside the can. I can't pull it out because the end is flared and the pipe is straight and also has to go out of the tip of the exhaust which is at an angle. What to do with these??? they make an annoying metallic tingling sound at certain rpm's / gears, if i can get them out what will happen to the can's other than being loud (they are now) i can't think that these bit's of pipe are actually doing anything now. Thanks Iain
  5. so what kinda price do you guys buy them for in the US then?? Iain
  6. I have a brand new in the bag double green dot cct complete with washer, bolts and gasket for sale, never used, bag never opened $60.00 inc shipping. Paypal no probs with me, any questions drop me a line NOW SOLD Iain
  7. Brake fluid is easy i followed these instructions from another XX site and it worked a treat, the only thing i will add is that i didn't have to remove the rear cowl to do the rear brakes, i used a small plastic funnel with a 3 inch piece of hose on it to get down into the rear reservoir. Open fron reservoir and draw out most of the old fluid (I use a turkey baster but over to you). Top up the res with new fluid. Crack the front left top bleed nipple and (I personally) put 6 full reservoirs of new fluid down there. Next is the front right top nipple and 6 full res's through there as well. Then you can seal up the front res and move to the rear. Draw out most of the excess old fluid from the rear res. Top up with new fluid and get down to the front right lower nipple. With the bleeding Mrs operating thr rear brake lever (again personally) I put 20 res's through there (it's a long line). Next the front left lower nipple gets another 20 res's. Then to the rear caliper and the nipple on top get s 5 res's first, as does the nipple pointing backwards straight after. The rest of the new fluid goes down the clutch line using the same routine. No doubt folks will think I've overdone the fluid quantities and I actually have, but I'm not using it for anything else. I noticed that the xx has plenty of fluid in the system to deal with wearing brake pads, so if it needs a topping up, then there's a fault so the system gets a full bleed. Brake fluid doesn't keep well once opened anyway. I actually think half a litre would do the job, but for a £3 saving errrrm--Sod it :mrgreen: Assuming the seat cowling is off (it's the only bodywork that has to be removed) expect the bleed to take 3/4 of an hour to and hour if you're being extra cautious. I should also say that bleeding the system from empty (line change etc) is a lot more time consuming and has added complications, but for a straight swap, it isn't hard- but obviously, avoid air getting in there at all costs
  8. I have similar problem but not on the bike, i installed hid's onto my audi a6, if i am using the cd player when i put the lights on it stops the cd and throws an error code on the radio. I wonder why???? by the sounds of things it's the same effect with your bike hid's.
  9. Just done mine yesterday didn't remove the screen, yup the screws on the reservoirs are very picky with regards to which screwdriver works best. As a tip you don't have remove the rear cowl to get to the rear reservoir, i undid the cap with a pair of long nosed pliers, refilling i borrowed from the kitchen a small funnel and then pushed that into a 3 inch or so piece of old washing machine hose, using that i can get the flid into the reservoir between the cowl and the frame. Iain
  10. Most of the oil will be in the sump anyway, filters should only be put on hand tight not with a wrench and don't forget to put smear of oil on the rubber sealing ring
  11. Be carefull with the downpipes from these guys they don't fit great and can cause fuelling probs on carb birds
  12. I am glad you got to the bottom of the problem and all is well.
  13. Injection blackbirds do run hotter than the carb versions, I was using my carb bird last year in cyprus in summer months and that got really hot in traffic, hottest i have ever seen it, once out on the opne road the temps dropped pretty fast. I appreciate if you do most of your riding in the city then the bike is going to be hot most of the time. Iain
  14. Any chance of a pic of this valve??? never knew it had something like that, i have just had a quick look through the workshop manual and it doesn't mention anything about this. For overheating it does mention, bad radiator cap, bad thermostat, faulty water pump etc etc.
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