jon haney

If you're not having any handling problems (like high-speed weave or wobble), you should be safe. The way I could tell that mine needed to be replaced was the popping or ping sound I would sometimes get when I would brake hard. It was kinda like the sound a rusty nut makes when you get it to loosen. With 30K on the clock, my opinion is to go ahead and replace them. It's not a hard job and the bearings are not that expensive. I used "All Balls" tapered bearing kit. Love um.

I got two '99 birds. 21,500 on the first one that is now a permanent drag-bike. 34,000 on the second one which is for street and the occasional track day. Both have the updated CCT, but I can't be certain that either one was bad when replaced. Other than consumable parts, I haven't had anything go bad. I haven't done the wire loom fix and both factory batteries went for 7 years. No charging or fueling issues. I've checked valve clearances, but never had any of them close to being too tight or too loose. Don't hate me. P.S. I am a little worried about the FPR. I might replace them just for the hell of it. Did I forget to mention that both tool straps are still good. However, I did have to replace a couple of fairing bolts that fell out because some dufus forgot to tighten them.

See post by RideonXX. That would explain the need for bigger jets. Also, Dynojet numbers their jets differtly than Mikuni or Kehin. Dynojet's 142 probably flows as much as the 155 they put in. I still think you're sucking air from somewhere. Have you taken the tops off of the carbs to make sure the slide diaphragms are installed properly and/or moving freely?

+1 You're getting fuel, just not enough. There should be a screen/filter where the fuel flows into the petcock. Check that to make sure it is clean. You might have to remove the petcock assembly to check this. Good luck.

I have the cable, instructions, and software. PM me if you still need them.

Not enough to keep it from starting. Fuel, spark, and compression are required for an engine to start. You gotta be missing one of them. How did you test for good spark? The system should be able to jump at least a 1/8" gap.

From what I saw the sizes available will not work for our bikes... at least the XX keep in mind rear tire wear is increased with engine breaking That explains why my rear seems to wear a little fast. I gotta quit riding like I'm at the track all the time. I think I'm going to try the Roadsmart on the rear next time. Wonder how it will match with a front Qualifier?

I'd say you have just about covered all the bases, so here is a couple of long-shot suggestions: Pull one of the spark plugs and then hit the starter to make sure the pistons are actually going up and down. If there is air being pushed out, you'll know the starter drive train is okay. Also, check the air coming out of the spark plug hole for the smell of fuel. If you don't get a strong fuel smell, you may have enough water in the fuel system to actually plug the injectors. Water won't pass through the tiny orifices as easy as gas will. Fixing this will require you to remove the injectors and completely drain the fuel system. Good luck.

Three mm won't give you any weird handling traits. I have about 3mm on mine and thought it was a noticeable improvement. I also dropped the front about 4mm. The lap times at my last track day were quite a bit better, so that proved to me that it was an improvement. One other thing: If your inseam is less than 34 inches, I doubt you would like the 6mm shim. Seat is too tall.

My guess is that it helps prevent vibrations from the pads being transfered into the caliper or from loosening the pin. Anybody else? Come on Stan. Surely you have some input on this.

Interesting.........I was just going by what Dynojet says.

Nope. P/C 2 was only for 99 & 00. Dynojet also said they are no longer supporting the P/C 2 in any way. Which means no repairs. :icon_wall:

A video would be even better.

I'm such a tard! Yes, you can do it that way. You don't need us math guys, we'll just over-think it. :icon_doh:

This worked for me: 1. Pull the front wheel off. 2. Unbolt the master cylinder from the bars (make sure the lid is on) and have someone hold it in a position where the banjo bolt is on the bottom. 3. Now pry both sets of pads apart to compress all pistons. This should force out the air that is trapped in the upper banjo bolt/master cylinder. (Make sure the reservoir isn't too full before you do this.) P.S. Tilting the master cylinder may be all you need to do to get the air out.

You probably have something in a bind. Loosen the axle nut, axle pinch bolts, and lower triple clamp bolts. Apply the front brake and push on the bars to compress the forks a few times. Then start re-tightening everything starting with the axle nut, then the pinch bolts, and finally the lower triple clamp bolts. If that doesn't fix it, something is bent.

BB forks are 43 mm outside diameter. Assuming 2 mm thick walls you would have 39 mm I.D. Take half that for the adjacent side of a right triangle or the length of the "B" side. The "a" angle will be the fork angle or IIRC 25 degrees. This makes the "b" angle 65 degrees and the "c" angle is always 90 degrees. The formula is: A/sin a=B/sin b To solve for A use...........Oh screw all this crap!! Just measure the low side of the fork and deduct 9 mm from what the book says. That should be close enough.

There is nothing wrong with Dunlops in general. I have about 5-6000 miles on my front Qualifier plus four track days. It's about two-thirds gone and yes there is cupping. Show me a sport-type front street tire that doesn't cup; :icon_snooty: Unless you stay off the front brakes. Yes, I tried the PP's. Still cupped within 1000 miles. You said the manufactured date was in 2005. The current Qualifier was not being made yet, so I'm guessing you have an old 208. Check your tire pressure. You should be running at least 40 psi on the street. Also was the tire and wheel balanced properly? If it's way out of balance, you could get some strange and/or accelerated wear.

It should be a nice light oil color like vegetable oil. If it is more of a brown color, it needs to be replaced. Check your rear brake reservoir fluid also.

Just reading this makes me go cross-eyed. I'm so glad I de-linked my brakes.

I think a couple of you guys didn't read all of his post. Carletal, I'm assuming you bought the side-car rig off of Ebay from Massachusetts? If so, I don't think tires will ever be an issue unless you put on 50K a year. Check with the guy you bought it from, and see if any of the other things mentioned above have already been replaced. Since he already has your money, I doubt he will lie to you about any replacements. Let us know how that thing rides. It looks cool.

Rubber Damping??????????????????? I've done everything short of splitting the cases and the only rubber I ever saw was the shaft seals and maybe a cushion on the balancer shafts.

With my 99 BB I get about 33 mpg with mixed driving and 40-42 on the highway at legal speeds.

Okay, thanks. I guess I'll leave it there then. It just makes a pretty good clunk when you put it into first at that speed. Try this: When you pull in the clutch, wait a couple of seconds before putting it in first. That lets the transmission gears slow down or stop so it won't "clunk" . Or at least not clunk as loud. Lowering the idle RPM also helps.

Problem #1 sounds like an electrical issue with the charging system. Problem #2 could be the valve train, but your description of the noise is very similar to what my drive chain does when it gets a stuck or tight link. Wouldn't hurt to check.