Biometrix

I am indeed conflating RH with EMC because they are relational in that a change in the RH can change the EMC. EMC is based on humidity and temperature of the surrounding environment so if EMC is reached in your garage or workshop at 65% RH (ok not your garage since you say your RH is lower in AZ) but then you move the wood into your home at let's say 25% RH...then the moisture content can fluctuate up to 6% which may not seem like a lot but depending on the wood can cause up to a 1/4 inch change in a 12 inch W X 3/4" board. Anyhow I'm not arguing...I was just stating MY experience as well. My wood changes because of the drastic fluctuations in the NE between temp and humidity. Yours changes because you basically live in a fucking convection oven that is more suitable for cacti and scorpions. 😁 Also, your bench looks really nice and the tiger maple legs are the tits.

Perhaps but just because it is dried to specific spec when shipped doesn't mean it will stay that way. It can get drier or suck up more moisture depending on where it ends up. Also do you really believe that all sources for lumber adhere to a specific industry spec? Maybe when you buy it from Lowes or HD but I would bet that local sawmills QC practices fluctuate greatly from actually testing the moisture content to "it's been sitting long enough, it's probably good". Interior furniture grade hardwood is supposed to be between 6%-8% moisture content but put that in an area with 60% to 85% humidity and it's going to shrink or expand and potentially warp and/or twist.

Meh...just an silly wild ass guess but perhaps the difference in the way wood behaves between you and Carlos is that even though you have humidity control, your average humidity in AL is about 85% and in AZ it's usually 60% or less? Wood drying out will warp it more than higher humidity will. That's probably why your MDF swells when it leaves your shop and his doesn't. Conversely, his exotic woods grew up in rain forests most likely so 60% or less humidity makes them go..."What the fuck?" Even the domestic hardwoods don't like drying out quickly. I recently re-sawed an 8" chunk of walnut that had been drying for 2+ years to about 1" boards and within a week they were all warpy-twisty due to further drying. Again...just speculation.

So true and from the pics it appears that the underside of table isn't finished/sealed so that will make the expansion and contraction from humidity changes even worse than if the whole table had some kind of a sealer coat.

^^^Agree. If looks don't matter this is an easy way to prevent the crack from expanding.

Why does the crack in the first of the 3 additional photos appear to have something white inside of it? Is that just the lighting/angle?

Neat idea but I can't think of one interior door in my house where I would have the adjacent unobstructed space inside the wall to put one in.

Glad you got it fixed...also DIBs!

That's what she said...

so many levels of dumbassery on that one...

I have no business commenting on matters of dust collection systems since mine consists of a shop-vac, dust pan and broom.

Table is cupped. Very nice! I love the built-in router table section. Which main model did you go with? I too am still using my Craftsman table saw I bought 30+ years ago. Good luck with that beast!

I cut larger pieces and sheet goods too big for the table saw on a sacrificial 4x8 sheet of particle board and set the saw blade to go about 1/4 inch deep into the 3/4 inch particle board, There's no fall-off and I can keep my right hand on the saw trigger handle and my left on the front handle of the saw. I don't take my hands off the saw until I'm done with the cut or the saw is stopped. About 18 years ago while being stupidly cavalier with a dado cut on the table saw, the wood kicked back and flipped my fingers against the dado blade. Thankfully didn't lose any fingers but it took a couple dozen stitches to fix me up. That woke me the fuck up and I've been SUPER careful ever since around saws with spinning blades.

OMG don't get me started on wood scraps...I...can...NOT...throw them away unless they are the smallest mangled pieces. You just never know when you'll need the perfect sized wood scrap. I have a whole section in my shop just for wood scraps separated into hardwood, softwood and ply/composite wood. Nothing more irritating then having to cut a nice full board or sheet for a tiny piece to complete a project.

Pictures? You're probably right about having to fabricate your own. Once you do...suggestion...fashion a mesh bag or some other container filled with moth balls affixed in the engine compartment. That's what I do for my old truck that sits under a cover in the winter. Keeps all the rodent's at bay.