tomek

About 19 of 20 times it will work,just ask birdiexx,,,,

20 hp,my ass,,,,,,,,,

I`ve lost remote for gorilla motorcycle alarm,any leads for replacements ,Radio Shock perhaps ? Some asswipe stole my tag,I would like to make it functional again.

What ? 608 for stock can plus mid pipe ? I would go with set of slip ons or even full system,,,,,,,,,,,,

I have progressive unit on my R1,I like it alot.It basically does not slow steering like " normal" dumper but kicks in when needed.Stocker I considered useless,it never kicked in,bars would flip like crazy,maybe was broken,,,,,,,,,,, You know,you would not need dumper on XX with stock handle bars thought,,,,,,

BTW,I was gonna flame (ign trigger ) shovelstroke,but he corrected himself. Lower numbers ( lets say 100/100 )- more overlap. Higher numbers (105/105) -less overlap.

There is some info here http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=43548 And here are some pics http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/gallery/11...7_507_23121.jpg http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/gallery/11...7_507_32806.jpg http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/gallery/11...7_507_19798.jpg http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/gallery/11...7_507_47463.jpg I don`t like magnetic attachments for dial,they are pretty much useless on motorcycles as almost everything is aluminium. That set up on my pics is a breeze,takes 30 seconds to get dial in place . It is important to clean treads and locktite them,otherwise cams may move,,,,,,,,,do it one at the time so your timing won`t move. Don`t get dials,etc from Harbour Freight,it is utter,useless cheap fucking junk,,,,,,,, I got mine from http://www.jlindustrial.com/, even their least expensive tools are 20 times better then Harbour Freight.

Well,how about wheelie,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Hondas are famous for loosing # 3 main bearing if it "slightly" too long,,,,,,,,,,

Let`s not forget that PAIR is not on all the time,,,,,,,,,,,,,there is selenoid valve there,,,,,,,,,,,,, It is on on decel.,but when motor is idling,,,,,,,,,,,,I don`t know,,,,,,,,,,,anybody wants to hook up voltometer to that valve and,,,,,,,,,,,report later ? I don`t see PAIR changing idle speed by 300 rpm,,,,,,,,,,,,,airbox is huge ( and free flowing) compared to PAIR holes ( they are abour 4-5 mm dim.),there can `t noticabale pressure drop when PAIR is sucking air out of airbox.

:icon_shocked: :icon_shocked: :icon_shocked: :icon_shocked: :icon_shocked: :icon_shocked: :icon_shocked: :icon_shocked: :icon_shocked: Those guys are fucking butchers,something is horribly wrong,or Ti Force is a dismal quality,but I don`t think the latter is the case. Anyway,I would take bike back and tell them to fix it.It is insane. Or loosen all the clamps,let the bike cool down,get a rubber mallet and try to allign parts of the system right.

Contrary to what most people think stock bikes don`t run too lean at WOT in last 1/3 of powerband.Typically slip-ons puts mixture about right in those conditions,plus contrary to what many people think,again, NA motors make better power on topend on rather lean mixtures. So there is not much to be gained here with PCIII or PCII,etc A/F that is too rich just kills top end. Many shops will adjust dyno setting,before and after custom map,to show greater gain and customer to be very happy. Part throttle and driveability it is diff. deal,and properly mapped PC can improve it big time.

Do not buy one from Walmart,it is utter piece of Shit.Couple of years ago I got couple for our bikes,one lasted one year ,second one- two years. I`ve had a good luck with gel batteries from Dennis Kirk,Power Max,part # 20-0360. 58 bucks.

Funny,same thing happened to my xx couple weeks ago,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,steel ( bolt ) and aluminium ( fork) don`t get along long term,,,,,,,,,, I`ve drilled bolt`s head till it "poped out".

Well,it is my cousin`s redneck solution to German engineering,,,,,,,,,,,parking brakes don`t work on that VW When I bolted the bike back together,I had a thought in my mind,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,"s--t,,,I`ve seen this color combo before,,,,but were,???????????" Now I know. C`mon people, lighten up,,,,,,,,,,,,,,It is fricking motorcycle,not religion,politics,etc,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,non riding population thinks we are crazy,stupid,etc,anyway,does not matter what we do,how we behave,etc. Well,,,,,,,,,,it is not my job to prove them wrong. BTW as far as I know I`m not a gay,,,,,,,,,but I`ve not taken a part in any of XX meetings,,,,,,,,never know for sure,,,,,,,,,,,,,I`ve seen "strange" photos,,,,,,,,,,

Well,it has been long winter,I had to find something to do,,,,,,,, Here is the result Exhibit # 1.Paint job 1.2 My 04 r1. The two tone job looked kind of boring,so I decided to add 48 th anniv. Yamaha racing stripe.1.1 was with just red wheels.The stripe is a real paint,not decals.In case if you wonder, that is about 8 hr job,with multipe coats ,color sanding,masking,etc. All paint is House of Kolor,FBC02 Orion Silver,FBC05 Lapis Blue,wheels and stripes,Kosmos Red Sg115 and Pbs43 Black pearl. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/gallery/11..._498_194266.jpg http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/gallery/11..._498_247336.jpg http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/gallery/11..._498_266022.jpg Exhibit #2.paint job 7.0 The most recent job was 2 tone galaxy gray and lapis blue,but it was just too plain,decided to start again.The end result is 3 tone full candy job. Blue is 6 coats of oriental blue,UK04 over sg108 so blue.Some dry pearls,for a sparkle, were added to first couple of coats of candy. Two bottom colors,it is actually 6 coats of Spanish Gold,UK14,over MBC01 Pale Gold,top,and bottom,Sg103 molly orange. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/gallery/11..._498_227137.jpg http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/gallery/11...7_498_88006.jpg http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/gallery/11..._498_170419.jpg http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/gallery/11...7_498_68600.jpg http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/gallery/11..._498_182109.jpg I still have to install and paint my Duck ST side cases and I guess Givi top case needs sides and bottom painted,It looks goofy the way it is now,,,,,, BTW,all decals on both bikes are 9.99 ebay deals,,,,,,,,, Dont like it ?,Well,,,,,,,,,,,,it is tough s---t

No need to add flex additive."Stock" paints are flexiable enough. XX bodywork is easy to dis/assamble,the onle wires involved are turn signals and headlight if I remember right. Push pins in lower part of the fairing might give you a trouble,after 7 years ther might be some dirt,etc,most likely you`ll ne some replacements. The only place that has paint formulas for bikes is Color Rite.They charge arm and leg,and paint quality is not so great. It is better/cheaper to pick up a color from a car,any paint schop/good body shop will be able to mix it for much,much less.

Is it not possible to index cams while the motor is in the bike? Well,I was looking at the wrong line, ,so I`ve edited my comments .Modded motor pulls very well on the topend. Can you degree cams with engine in place ?.Not really,frame is blocking the access.Engine needs to be dropped,leave rear lower bolt in place,just lower the front of the motor.It is still big job...............

Nice job.

1. I understand that only at steady rpm/low throttle ECU operates in close loop cycle( takes reading from O2 sensor),other then that is open loop operation. 2 & 3. I guess oxygen sensor eliminator is needed in close loop system. 4. PC is so-called piggy back device,it changes,in case of PC3,injector duty cycles.It does not change programming of ECU.Basically if PC3 calls for 5% more fuel at 4000 rpm and 10% of throttle ,engine will get 5% more fuel,whether it is slowly accelerating,very rapidly acccelerating,dec. or at steady cruise.It is a main limitation of devices like PC3,becouse correction is only 2 dimensional,while factory ECU bases amount of fuel delivered to the motor on,I don`t know ,6-8 dimensions ?. 5.There is a pressure sensor inside of airbox,it takes care of any effect of RAM AIR,tuner who tries to compensate for it on bikes that come factory equiped with this devise don`t know WTF they are doing IMHO.Stock ECU takes care of Ram AIR fuel needs based on that pressure sensor and speed reading.

What,are you a cave man ? http://mototuneusa.com/ ,you`ll need to sign up to access all the issues ,,,,,,,,

Anyway,if you really get 20 hp with just end cans I`ll wash your bike. Honestly,even with 4 in 1 pipe tuned for peak rpms I doubt 20 hp is achiveable. Magaphone widens rpm range where pipe works. EXUP,etc is there on production bikes for noise and polution reasons.With flap valve in exhaust you can choke flow to the point that it works like EGR system,brings down NOx and noise. You don`t see any of that crap on real race bikes. 1% of my brain tells me ,who knows it might work,brilliant things are usually very simple,so simle ,but 99% says it is snake oil.

Well,,,,bike is not ready,paint booth has been really busy,I have not been able to squize in their schedule.Next week ,maybe. Having said that motor is all done,took a "naked" bike for very short spin (2 MILES) in industial part.Basically, it is totally different motor,even while idling it sounds much meaner,bark is much deeper.There is a big improvement in low and mid range,bike pulls much harder,top end feels about the same I guess,hard to tell.My recollection of XX`s top end is vouge,it has been a while since I`ve ridden that thing. Powerband is very linear,the 6-7 k rpm hit has been eliminated,it has torque everywhere.I tried to short shift,bike gains speed very fast, not unlike liter bikes,where you don`t have to use lots of revs and still blow almost everything. I`m very happy with results,my number 1 objective was wider power band and more responsive motor,it seems that I`ve achived that.

I would smack it little more,,,,,,,,,,,grab small hammer and whack it couple times till it looks good,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, BTW I`ve never used "proper tools" on chain work,never had problems with them,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,good mechanic does not need any stinking tools,just a hammer and wise grips,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Tensioner goes last,period. Basically it goes like that Park crankshaft so cylinders 1 nad 4 are at TDC ( there is a timing mark of ignition trigger wheel and its cover ).Side note.Becouse those marks are on such a small radious you`ll never get cylinders right at TDC without degree wheel and positive cylinder stopper,but it might be good enough. Install exhaust camshaft with sprocket where they suppose to be, ( timing marks) put the chain over a EX sprocket in such a way that all the slack between crankshaft and EX sprocket is taken out. Install IN cam with sprocket in right position ( marks again), and put chain over intake sprocket so there is no slack between Ex and In.You might have to remove intake sprocket from the cam in order to do it. Install tensioner with rod backed all the way in and locked with the tool.Once is bolted to the engine block ,tool needs to be removed. Now engine needs to be turned over clockwise( when you look from the right side),make sure that chain won`t jump over cam sprockets,use your hand or install that little guide that goes between In and Ex cam boxes.Tensioner will take a slack away,you`ll hear the "snap". Crank the engine few times( by hand of course) ,check timing marks on the crank,In cam and EX cam.They have to right. You can use ignition rotor bolt to spin the motor,I think it is 17 mm,removing spark plugs helps. I agree,those timing marks on cam sprockets are PITA to see.When I degreed my cams,motor was lowered on rear bottom bolt. Just becouse your valve clearance was O.K.( well at least on IN valves) don`t assume your valves and valve seats are in a good shape. You might wanna check out "94 k miles cylinder head tear down" tread. BTW how tight were yor Ex valves,do you have Honda`s workshop manual or just O.E.M. piece ?,,,,,,,, You have to be totally sure everything is right or you`ll bend valves.