Dano

Bike is sold... thanx for looking..

Hey Jeff, long time. I hope it doesn't sell, should have asked more just to make sure.. Two collar bones, one ankle, one scapula and now a wrist last month. I should sell the dirt bikes first! Truth is, I just have ridden it much in the last few years. Someone will get a great bike in excellent shape... What are you riding now? dan

Very well cared for, never down. . Only owner... bought new... Wilber's rear shock with remote preload Spiegler braided brake and clutch lines Carbon fiber hugger VFR Bars Pazzo Levers, long clutch short brake Heated Grips Full Givi's & tank bag Geza Cover New tires, New battery Fresh oil, clutch and brake fluid New radiator fluid valves adjusted at 32K ( only two slightly out, shim changed to spec) Box of parts includes, plastic pins, brake pads, original shock.. stock bars.. bla bla.. bunch of stuff Factory manuals... To many off road injuries are forcing sale (wife is pissed at me) NW guys know me,, call 425 922 nine five oh two if interested $4,750 thanx dan

That sight of you auto rotating off the road, or the smiley face burn outs in the parking lot.. both memorable.. At the end of it all, it ain't a bad memory for me. I'd be interested in seeing the pic you're talking about if it's not too much trouble.

Thank you for the reply, I had stopped by the local Honda shop yesterday with micro fiche print out and shop manual in hand. When I asked how to replace the o ring, Their "motor guy" said "wow, can't advise about that, kinda hard to figure out those drawings, don't really know how it goes together. " I guess that is the reason in 11 years I've never had them work on my bike. When I asked if, I had them fix the leak what would they do if the they don't know how it comes apart, he said " I guess we'd just start taking it apart till we get there." Amazing.... I'll do as you say, leave it a lone as it's not a big deal and not worth the effort. I'll just stuff some oil adsorbent matting in there and change it out once in awhile. It is really just a slight weeping leak, but it does bug me.... cheers dan You have to crack apart the engine case to replace it. It's not worth the time and effort. Keep a piece of cardboard under the bike to catch the small drops of oil that fall after a ride and make sure that you keep oil in the bike(though the loss of oil is minimal). The rear lobe of the shaft isn't small enough to remove from the engine casing so you can pull the shaft out to the last lobe and it will not go any farther

2002 Bird 40K miles.. Seems that I have an oil leak on the rear balancer shaft. (left side bike) Sort of inboard from starter motor.. What is the procedure to replace this oring? Remove radiators hoses to make room, loosen holder bolt .... then will the shaft pull out a bit to get to O ring. ? Searched a bit but not sure I'm clear on the process. thanx dan

Have you replaced the FPR yet. I too have been grumbling about poor mileage as of late. 2002 stock motor no mods. 41K miles, MPG down to about 27 around town. db

BTTT... Shoot I'd ask more for my 2002 and it's got 45K miles on it..

What's with the Harley drip catcher underneath? I know, I know you're still monitoring for spluge.. New tank, new paint... expensive and time consuming leak... It sucks when things go fubar... I'm working on my pump house/well today and just snapped off an old rusty fitting.

Is it fixed?

I use the shamwow.. Hey member #10 has it's privileges. Well maybe not. Doing good, more dirt riding then street these days. I'll try to get out with the NW gang soon.

1st post an ad..

Looks nice, is there a Power Commander to go with those Microns ?

Don't worry about the bid, I was only gonna go as high as $25.50 how bout you? Stan: thanx for the welding offer, but I'll be riding almost every day and can't go without. Summer only lasts so long.....

If I wasn't so EBAY challanged I would have it already. Got out bid by .50 cause I didn't have the max bid set up right.. I broke the ankle guard on the left front(driver) peg mount. Anyone have one laying around??? I have a 2002, not sure if all years are same. dan

My neighbor said he could weld it for me at his work. Has a setup at Boeing for doing Aluminum. Gave it to him last night. Thanx for the Ebay link Stan. I'll be bidding tomorrow if the Boeing thing doesn't workout. dan

2002 37K 2 CCT and the leftside footpeg bracket, anklewing snaped off. Bad casting..?

Left side ankle wing broke off today. Tucking in the feet a little to hard I guess. Actually the casting was flawed. Looks like a small crack had been on the backside a long time. 2002XX Are there any cool aftermarket peg brackets. Ron Ayers wants $51.36 + shipping. Took awhile to find it. They call it the STEP on the microfiche. Thanx dan

Jezzzz Jason way to make me feel like a girlly-man. Thought I was doing well putting VFR bars on last weekend.. Most excellent imagination and execution!!!

If you just want to get a knee down for the sake of saying you did it, just find an empty large flat parking lot. Put something in the middle to look at, cone, jacket whatever and start doing circles. Adjust the radius with speed and in a couple of minutes you'll be able to get a feel how far off the edge of the seat a cheek has to be to drag a knee. Just don't be surprised if you foot buzzes from the peg hitting before you learn to hang off far enough to touch a knee. Have you shimmed the rear shock? No substitute for a track day instruction session.

Got the shimming done and cams back in. I put a dot of paint white paint on the gear teeth, either side of the alignment mark . And a dot near the little hole right between the teeth on the inside. Made the eyeballing positioning much easier. I think it's a good call to remove the cam pulse generator. The chain gets torqued around a little bit inside there getting the right teeth on the gears, at the right spacing to lay nicely on the journals. Tightened/torque em up and turned a few rotations. Everything looked right. Checked the gaps. Sure is nice when you just grab the .006" and .009" and they fit.. Button it up tomorrow night.

I'm replacing my CCT while Im at it so I used the key on the new one to hold the old one while I work. I don't see any problem just taking it out after the gaps are measured. I didn't mark my intake cam either. Don't think it'll be a problem. I didn't remove the sprokets so I can still mark em on the inside if I want to. I just made sure I left the IN and EX marks aligned on the cylinder head before I pulled them. I went to the local shop today and did a shim swap with one of the mechanics. I only needed 6 after switching the others around. He did seem a little peeved as I was putting the mic to each one he traded with me. He told me next time just bring in a list of what I wanted and not to bother figuring out the swap. He'd just take mine, throw them in the bins and pull the ones I wanted. Next stop the auto parts store to get a tube of Molybdenum disulfide. Hope I have time to start putting it together tonignt.

Once you have it stripped down to measure, pulling the cams is easy. Just a bunch more bolts to undo It just takes time to measure all the shims and figure out where to move them to, and which ones you need to get.. With that being said I haven't put mine back together yet, so my story may change.

I bought it at Harbor Freight. They have a new store in Bellevue. I got a 15% off coupon form a guy on ADV Rider and they applied that to their regular price of $299 and gave me the discount from the $199 sale price . So out the door is was $168 Sweet deal.. indeed..

What the hell ya doing in there? BTW once are bikes are back together and we have a nice day, lets go somewhere!