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It does work. 48 bucks with 20 percent off. Typically it takes me 30-60 seconds to break bead on common motorcycle tire with nothing more than couple spoons. Dunlop race slicks are entirely different animal, extremely stiff construction. It is major pita to break bead on them, with HF tool -10 seconds job.

In their normal position a small amount of air can remain in the clutch and front brake masters even after a full bleeding. Turn the bars left and lean the bike left so that the handle end is even or slightly higher than the hose end of the master and pump. Do the same to the right for the clutch. Any air will rise into the reservoir. If you do it with the cap off you can see if there was air, but pump slowly, if you squeeze a little too fast it'll shoot a small stream of fluid up that can get all over stuff.

So the full brake bleeding story... Bear in mind the system was completely empty, new brake lines fitted. Much swearing ensued until I invited a friend round to help. Initially I tried somewhat unsuccessfully to bleed the brakes myself following the instructions in the service manual, at this point I nipped out and bought a cheap compressor as I didn't own one but did own a brake bleeder that uses one, long story, anyways. I tried doing it with the compressor with limited success, in the end it was a combination of syringe, pumping and using the compressor that won out. When I/we pumped the pedal / lever we would give it at least 10 pumps before opening the bleed nipple to build up some pressure. First step is to do the rears, basically bleed the centre nipples front and rear one at a time, we did the rear OK and got reasonable pedal, so next we moved to the centres on the front. We tried pushing fluid in through the bleed nipple with the syringe but the valves stopped it somehow. Getting fluid to the right was fine, clear fluid came out, but the left wouldn't bleed properly, I was getting more air than fluid, it turned out that the pipe over the top of the front mudguard had an airlock in it that none of our methods would draw through so we cracked the pipe open at the joint and carefully bled it that way, it took 4 good pumps of the pedal to get all the air out of there but it's in good order now. Next step was to do the outer bleed nipple on the rear, again this is bled by activating the footpedal, it's a linked system but has two completely separate hydraulic circuits. It appears that the rear is activated by a piston that attaches to the left front caliper plate. The fronts were far more straightforward, once again we had to crack open the mudguard pipe to get an airlock out but other than that we simply started with the syringe drawing the air through, used the compressor, and then pumped the lever for good measure. We have good lever pressure but the whole thing needs to be bedded in now. More bleeding fun... the clutch! So I some how caught the clutch lever a few times when moving around the bike, as my slave cylinder was not attached to the bike it pushed the piston right out. I noticed a puddle of fluid under the bike then realised what had happened. I built it back up but having looked at what fluid remained in the reservoir it was obvious a change was needed. Out came the trusty syringe and I drew out all of the dark brown fluid. I cleaned out the reservoir and put some nice new RBF600 in, slowly I drew that through using the syringe and keeping the reservoir topped off until the fluid was clean coming out. Next I pulled a bit more with the compressor, finally a few pumps for good measure. Clutch lever is nice and firm now