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My riding buddy passed last thanksgiving and had a few bikes. All went to family except for this last one. 1986 Kawasaki Ninja 1000R. Bike is clean with 36000 miles. Corbin seat has a tear in it. His wife has started it and it runs fine as far as I know. She's asking $2500. I only have the one pic right now but if theres any interest I will take some more if wanted and try to answer any questions. Thanks guys. Skip

Sigh, as soon as I saw 3 pages of posts, I knew this thread was going to be another Jerry Springer episode, staring Tomek and Oscar, and/or Carlos. Sigh. 😔

You are asshole non-cuban just as bad as the brother's . go Fuck yur self Copy pasted from Tomek's thoughts.

Probably 5-40, I don't think there's a 20 available for diesels. After a lot of research I'm running Rotella T6 5-40 in mine year round. The only real downside I know of with running an oil with a large spread like 5-40, compared to 15-40, is that the additives are more compromised. But according to lots of used oil analysis, despite the 7.3 being hard on oil, that stuff does well even out to pretty high mile change intervals. I won't suggest going past 7k intervals just cuz, but the UOAs I've seen say that it's perfectly safe. The more it leaks or burns and has to be topped off the longer the oil will go. Even tho it turns black & scary looking, replacing even a small amount adds lots of life to the oil. Some big rigs have an on board oil change system that replaces about 2 of the 10-11 gallons of oil in the engine automatically and that small amount about doubles the change interval.

Dude you need your meds checked...

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That kinda looks like a dial indicator, but they only measure linear movement in line with the plunger; what is that thing called? Today I played with the adjustments and might have figured out the solution. The mysterious mechanical clutch actuator is kinda odd and it appears that I just need to make some adjustments/tweaks. The cable is too long to get a proper adjustment without having the adjusters all the way out to where they're falling off the threads, but at that point I was able to get a good release and find neutral. I'll take some measurements using your guy's measurement & photo to confirm, then I'll probably have to have a cable made to the right length. Thank you joblock and blackhawk.

I'm sure most of you already know this but if any of you don't please be advised rockmeupto125 as a really nice guy. Kung Fu aside I wish I could shake his hand and buy him a beer.

I don`t see this being related to heat handling, if anything, thinner oil flows better and should be able to carry away more heat from the engine. Many major brands have 0w20 race oils, not sure I would wanna use it long term in my bike. Race engines of teams with enough $ get refreshed every 1000-2000 miles or whatever. They can trade increased rebuild intervals for couple hp. https://www.joesracing.com/product/maxima-rs-full-synthetic-oil-0w-20/

One of the claimed advantages of a series type regulator is reduced stress on the stator. We shall see.